"Is Simone Rocha turning her back on frills and femininity?" That’s the question echoing through the halls of London Fashion Week after the designer’s latest show. Known for reviving the coquettecore craze with its love of bows, lace, and unapologetic girlishness, Rocha surprised everyone by embracing a rugged, sporty edge this season. But here’s where it gets controversial: can a designer balance blokecore’s boyish swagger with the delicate charm her fans adore? Let’s dive in.
For years, Rocha’s runway was a haven for the ‘model off-duty’ archetype—think studded jackets and girl-power minimalism. Her work sparked a global obsession with coquettecore, a trend dripping in ribbons and romance. But this season? The mood shifted. Picture models striding down the catwalk in oversized satin bombers or track jackets that screamed ‘Gallagher brothers’ nostalgia,’ paired with knee-high soccer socks. Spoiler alert: Adidas Originals joined the creative ride, blending streetwear with Rocha’s signature flair.
The inspiration? Perry Ogden’s 1990s photo series Pony Kids, capturing working-class Irish youth who fused equestrian culture with casual sportswear. (Fun fact: Ogden himself walked in Rocha’s Fall/Winter 2023 show.) Yet Rocha didn’t abandon her roots. She wove in playful contrasts—like lace boiler suits layered under track jackets, corsages pinned to tailored trousers, and sporty socks blinged up with Adidas logos. Even her iconic pearls resurfaced, this time as zipper pulls on utilitarian coats. "It’s about clashing worlds," she explained, nodding to the collection’s theme of ‘clothes loved and lived in,’ with tweeds and tapestry prints adding depth.
And this is the part most people miss: Rocha’s genius lies in duality. Yes, she sent masculine silhouettes down the runway, but she also sprinkled her classic magic—bow-adorned gowns in ‘peat green’ and a showstopping red dress fit for a victory lap. The message? Femininity isn’t going anywhere; it’s just evolving. But does blending blokecore and coquettecore dilute their meanings? Or is Rocha proving that fashion’s most exciting moments happen at the intersection of opposites?
What do you think? Is this a bold reinvention—or a betrayal of her signature style? Drop your take in the comments below.
Véronique Hyland, ELLE’s Fashion Features Director and author of Dress Code (a New Yorker Best Book of the Year), has written extensively on fashion’s cultural shifts for outlets like The New York Times Magazine, The New Yorker, and Harper’s Bazaar.
